Hi again!
So, as I mentioned in my previous post, I'm writing to you dear people from Merida, Yucatan, the land of Green Eyes. Took me some time for putting thoughts and impressions into words, but I guess that's the natural process of adapting to and breathing in a new place. And Merida sure is. Let's see how.
Living here feels like not living in Mexico, which, in and off itself isn't that hard to understand; the Yucatan was a republic per se before the final union of the Mexican Republic back in the XIX century. Even nowadays, the former republic's flag can be seen pretty often.
The Yucatan agreed on becoming a part of the Mexican Republic, but only under the condition of keeping a certain autonomy and being able to separate whenever it felt that the happiness (observe, not wellbeing/political/financial interests) of the Yucatan people became jeopardized. And still, the Yucatecs consider themselves to be the sister republic of Mexico.
Leaving Mexico City and coming to Merida actually felt quite refreshing; although living there can feel fascinating, it can also feel totally absorbing. For the time being, living in a city that's more or less trash/violence/traffic jam/free, feels good.
I remember that, when coming to Merida for the 1st time (last year, spent only 2h in the city) the first thought that struck me was that Merida looked like an elegant, slightly chubby old lady who was spending her days lying in a hammock, remembering her past glory and just observing the constant changes, but without loosing her identity and her self-indulgence.
Being here only made me reaffirm this impression, that's how Merida actually is. And life here reminds me incredibly of One hundred years of solitude. First it's the heat and the humidity; I'm writing this sitting only in my shorts, 32ºC outside and total humidity (these are winter temperatures, the summer temperature goes around 40ºC) and the heat does condition your way of life (my favorite moment is seeing the grannies&co. taking their chairs in front of the house to enjoy the cooler temperature in the sunset). The elegance and remembering the past comes from the time when the Yucatan (and especially Merida) was living it's golden years thanks to the henequen, famous for it's fiber. Nevertheless, the henequen dream came to an end when the plastic was discovered and was cheaper and more available than the henequen. But you can still see it's presence all over town, 1st in its architecture (the henequen money, united with the pro-French obsession of that time's dictator, Porfirio Díaz, left some Paris looking areas) and in the railway that crosses the whole town, although no trains are passing through these days (does this remind you of Macondo and the banana industry splendor?). Some pics:
So, as I mentioned in my previous post, I'm writing to you dear people from Merida, Yucatan, the land of Green Eyes. Took me some time for putting thoughts and impressions into words, but I guess that's the natural process of adapting to and breathing in a new place. And Merida sure is. Let's see how.
Here it is! Around 1 million people.
Living here feels like not living in Mexico, which, in and off itself isn't that hard to understand; the Yucatan was a republic per se before the final union of the Mexican Republic back in the XIX century. Even nowadays, the former republic's flag can be seen pretty often.
The Yucatan agreed on becoming a part of the Mexican Republic, but only under the condition of keeping a certain autonomy and being able to separate whenever it felt that the happiness (observe, not wellbeing/political/financial interests) of the Yucatan people became jeopardized. And still, the Yucatecs consider themselves to be the sister republic of Mexico.
Leaving Mexico City and coming to Merida actually felt quite refreshing; although living there can feel fascinating, it can also feel totally absorbing. For the time being, living in a city that's more or less trash/violence/traffic jam/free, feels good.
I remember that, when coming to Merida for the 1st time (last year, spent only 2h in the city) the first thought that struck me was that Merida looked like an elegant, slightly chubby old lady who was spending her days lying in a hammock, remembering her past glory and just observing the constant changes, but without loosing her identity and her self-indulgence.
Being here only made me reaffirm this impression, that's how Merida actually is. And life here reminds me incredibly of One hundred years of solitude. First it's the heat and the humidity; I'm writing this sitting only in my shorts, 32ºC outside and total humidity (these are winter temperatures, the summer temperature goes around 40ºC) and the heat does condition your way of life (my favorite moment is seeing the grannies&co. taking their chairs in front of the house to enjoy the cooler temperature in the sunset). The elegance and remembering the past comes from the time when the Yucatan (and especially Merida) was living it's golden years thanks to the henequen, famous for it's fiber. Nevertheless, the henequen dream came to an end when the plastic was discovered and was cheaper and more available than the henequen. But you can still see it's presence all over town, 1st in its architecture (the henequen money, united with the pro-French obsession of that time's dictator, Porfirio Díaz, left some Paris looking areas) and in the railway that crosses the whole town, although no trains are passing through these days (does this remind you of Macondo and the banana industry splendor?). Some pics:
The interior of the national theatre.
Random French-alike architecture.
The main square+the Cathedral.
Random houses downtown.
Former henequen hacienda.
Another former hacienda, with the tropical jungle taking over it.
But, besides it's history&co., the most important thing are the people of Merida. The physionomy is really different than of the people of Central Mexico (got a lot to do that many people here are descendants the Maya Indians). Apart from the mere physical appearance, there's also the behavior. Everything is incredibly slow, every decision takes it's time and it's also reflected in the language -the Spanish spoken here is easily identified in the rest of Mexico, with it's unique song-like melody which depicts the "no worries, we'll do it somehow, but slowly" philosophy of the people. Also, it's full of Maya words. Another thing is that the meaning of 'hermoso' (beautiful) receives a whole different connotation here. One can be 'lindo y hermoso' (beautiful and beautiful). How? Well, because here 'hermoso' means that you've got some extra kilos (which in Merida is a virtue). And I must say, people here are far more 'lindos y hermosos' than in Mexico City. Take a peek:
Lights Out, Words Gone (the video was made on Santa Lucía Square, downtown Merida)
So, this would be Merida and the Yucatan wrapped up into words, or at least my attempt of it. There are many other things to talk about -suddenly moving from downtown Mexico City to a suburb of Merida, changing the constant humming of the traffic for random birds singing in the garden, being surrounded by the rainforest, watering a rooftop garden, and changing Doña Inés and her constant babbling for seven adorable dogs and two cats. And, seeing the sunset every day from the rooftop.
All this, with me getting a constant Yucatec loch (hug/smooch) and seeing where the Mexico poch (craving) is taking me.
Love you all,
Danilo
What a charmingly weathered place! The Tropics welcomes you with open arms and all the mameys/naseberries your Serboswexican gullet could possibly ingest!
ResponderEliminarFrom the way you write, I can tell that you are enjoying the air of tranquility (and other liberties) that this place affords. ;)
I am particularly moved by the condition upon which the Yucatan would cease to be part of sister Mexico. ¡Qué hermosura de perspectiva! - Severance that is contingent upon the happiness or lack thereof of the people. I only wish more countries and regions were this dedicated to the wellbeing of their people.
I imagine that a few [insert time period here] will definitely bring to the fore and rejuvenate that globally chiseled exuberance which you carry around on that rostro of yours! Looking forward to great future endeavours from you.
I'm still stuck at the possibility of people being both 'lindo' and 'hermoso' all at the same time! They say beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I think this is one more kind of beauty to add to the two described in you blog! PLUS with these 'beauties' being contemplated by the green eyes of which you speak, one can only conclude by saying 'beauty beholds beauty '. I can certainly identify with the perception of beauty as being on the meatier end of things; Jamaican culture and traditional beauty hangs in this same balance.
In closing, I'm sure the Yucatan will, in more ways than one, contribute to your overall wellbeing and list of Spanish accents -- no doubt you already have the Yucatec lilt lacing every other syllable. You are hated by many!
All the best and nuff (lots of) love from the only living 'cup of chocolate' in this hemisphere or anywhere in the world, for that matter!
CB